Known higher mileage issues

[leadfoot6]

Before my current 17"/Michelin 215/55/17 Pilot Sport 4's, I used Bridgestone 215/60/16 Re003 Potenza's for almost 3 years.

Except for slightly higher wear than what I considered ideal, I was very, very happy with the Bridgestones in every respect.

Their achillies heel was being fitted to the standard width factory alloys, which at 6" was just too narrow.

A 7" wheel size would have been ideal, and would have prevented the excess shoulder wear that meant premature replacement.

[an observer]

The car has a twin. Almost.

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/mang...awd/1207034116

[an observer]

After buying a new AFM last month to address intermittent miss and occasional stalling issues, car has of course now been running faultlessly.

Due for a service next month. Got a few weeks to decide what to do.

[an observer]

Another recurrence of failed power windows. Thus time was different, with nine of the control switches, or the rear switches working. Pulled out the existing control switches and reset the brass rockers on ther cradles, as several had cone loose. No change. Checked the master onoff switch. No change. Replaced it with the new switch set - yup, no change.

Thinking it might be a fuse, checked the 40a fuse under the bonnet. Looks ok.

Finally, having no idea, have booked it into the auto elec. See what he can find.

[an observer]

So the fuse was blown and now fixed. The windows are working again but the right rear window switch is now kaput.

Went for a drive tonight and filled it up. At least it still drives well.

[an observer]

Day 5144 of ownership. Situation normal. Finally had time and energy to pull apart the rear window switch that the auto electrician said had died. As we pay him by the hour, its a secondary switch to the front and he was busy, he merely duct taped it over, saying it wasn't working. Hmmm.

Figuring I have little to lose since it isn't working anyway, decide to try and pull it out to see what it wrong. I found a replacement on eBay for twenty bucks plus postage, so I know the cost of failure is pretty low.

So, lever the switch out and there is a retaining clip at the front that promptly falls into the door well. Then i have to ease the door covering off to get the clip back. Door covering goes back in place.

The switch itself is a smaller version of the master controller between the front seats. It has a plug-in connection to the cars wiring loom. I put a screwdriver through the multiple wires to stop the loom falling into the door well and ease the switch apart from the loom. It reluctantly comes apart, so I place the loom down on the switch cavity with the screwdriver holding it place, and take the switch itself into the light where i can see it clearly.

The switch is a mostly plastic affair. It looks like this.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mitsubis...53.m1438.l2649

About half way down the stalk below the switch itself that normally hides in the arm rest, there are four clips that look to hold the bottow switch contacts to the upper half of the-one piece unit the switch actually sits in. Using a fine screwdriver I ease it apart and it quickly is obvious what is wrong. The brass rocker has slipped off the contact cradle, exactly the same as the front ones eventually do. I put it back in and ease the assembly together.

The switch is still sticking. So I take it apart again and decide to spray some wd40 into it. Hey, it fixes everything, right? Wiping the excess off I reassemble and clean the switch. Success! It now works smoothly. I slide the retaining clip into the front side of the unit and gently connect the loom to the switch.

Now to test. Turn the key to on and back to accessory to power up the loom. Hit the switch and bang - it works. Up, down, up, down.

Ease the switch back into the cavity and it snaps into place. Now to finish polishing and detailing after yesterday's wash.

[leadfoot6]

After buying a new AFM last month to address intermittent miss and occasional stalling issues, car has of course now been running faultlessly.

Due for a service next month. Got a few weeks to decide what to do.

Hi Darren,

I received your PM re:AFM part numbers.

Due to earlier problems, I still cannot seem to send PM's

https://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=107860

So here are the numbers I have from the AFM that I have been using without any problems for 2 years:

338 3617
k

E5T06071

Please let me know if I can help further.

Kind regards,

John.

[WytWun]

All J/L/W series cars run the "338" MAF/AFM (so named because "338" is clearly visible in fairly large characters on the top plate of the unit); I'm pretty sure that 3.5l H series cars also used this model MAF but not sure whether the 3l cars did as well. KFs run a "337" MAF which is the same as the "338" except it lacks the barometric pressure sensor. "338" MAFs work fine in KFs, but "337" MAFs will raise the CEL for the missing sensor in the later cars. 3l E/F series cars used a different model MAF, also lacking the barometric pressure sensor.

[an observer]

Thank you both for the input.

In looking around i find there are '338' parts with a different suffix. Ie the number after 338 varies.

Will this matter?

[WytWun]

As long as the "338" is in larger characters than any other numbers on that plate, as far as I can tell the other numbers won't make a difference. The "338" MAFs were also used in MK Tritons from about 2001 onwards, for both 4G64 and 6G72 variants I understand, so they should be reasonably easy to find.